Here's another dug up on the vast expanses of the network:
It turns out that the most common cause of freezing of glass in the car interior is the lack of car owners' skills to properly use the heating system. Often, trying to heat up the interior of the car as quickly as possible, they move the air intake control lever to the "inside" position. And although at the same time, the air inside the car really heats up quickly, since the same volume of air is driven through the “stove” radiator, however, if car owners win in one, they lose in the other.
Unfortunately, in such a situation, there is an increase in air humidity, which is also enriched with exhalation vapor from those sitting in the cabin, fumes from shoes, rugs, etc., and this, as a rule, leads to fogging or freezing of the interior glass. Unfortunately, if you turn on the “stove” for heating at the maximum fan speed and temperature, then in such a situation this will not help much, since in the process of movement the car glass is constantly cooled by a stream of oncoming air.
Then the question naturally arises as to when the “stove” operating mode, called “from the inside”, should be used in the car. It turns out that the operating mode of the “stove” “from the inside” must be used for accelerated warming up of the engine, just when the car is standing and the heating system is working.
In order to achieve the absence of icing on the windows of the car by the time the movement starts, it is necessary to transfer the air intake lever when the engine is partially warmed up to the “outside” position. Partial warming up of the engine is considered warming up by 50-60%. The use of the “from the inside” mode with the stove not working is also allowed when it is necessary to exclude exhaust gases from the engine compartment from entering the cabin, or when increased smoke appears outside, which can occur in city traffic jams.
If the freezing of automotive glass occurs with the correct regulation of the air intake in the “outside” mode, then this means that there are malfunctions in the heating and ventilation systems. One of the reasons for this may be a break in the lever cable during air intake at a time when it is in the “inside” position.
It is also possible that the radiator is clogged, and for some foreign cars, the air filter of the ventilation and heating system. At the same time, there is a smaller supply of fresh air into the car interior, and the missing volume is sucked from the passenger compartment, while performing re-circulation. Fogging or freezing of car windows can also occur when a lot of moisture has accumulated in the cabin in the fleecy floor carpets, as well as under them.
During the operation of the "stove" there is a constant evaporation of the accumulated moisture. The presence of high humidity in the car interior may also indicate a violation of the tightness of window, door and other seals through which water could penetrate inside during rains. It is advisable to dry the interior by removing carpets, or during prolonged operation of the car's heating system. It is imperative to find and eliminate leaks, since as a result of the first thaw, excess moisture will again enter the cabin.
In order to maintain normal atmospheric pressure in the car interior when the “stove” is running, the design of the ventilation system of any car provides for the presence of an exhaust device. In this case, the air from the passenger compartment through special slots or trim enters the channel with a rubber valve, and then is removed outside through the hole, which is hidden under the decorative grille.
Unfortunately, some car owners who do not know the mechanism of the car's ventilation system clog this hole in order to warm it up for the winter. The result is a lack of ventilation with all the consequences that follow from this, that is, frosting of glass, moisture in fabric upholstery and rugs.